ABOUT THIS WATCH

The saying “If you love something, set it free” is being put to the test as I’ve decided to part with one of the most beloved watches in my personal collection, this gilt dial Rolex Explorer 5504 from 1958. For many watch enthusiasts including myself, a gilt dial Explorer 1 with a chapter ring is the ultimate grail and usually when people think of this watch they think of a Rolex 1016. This watch gets mistaken for one of those a lot, and really the only difference between the two is that the 5504 was never chronometer certified, which at the time was Rolex’s way of offering this similar model for cheaper. Or maybe more like offering the same watch in the 1016 for more money.

When the 5504 Explorer was first produced in 1958 the chronometer certified version of the Explorer was actually the Rolex 6610 which utilized the caliber 1030 movement that was being phased out of their sport watches. The 5504 was one of the first models to utilize the newer 1530 movement and would be used in the earliest Submariners of the time including the legendary 5508 & 5510 Big Crown, more commonly known as the James Bond watches. The newer caliber was more compact and while it was still highly precise it was designed to be more of a workhorse caliber, hence the reason why it was used in several models without a chronometer certification including the earlier Submariners, the later 5513 Sub and the Air-King.

Speaking of the Air-King, this 5504 Rolex Explorer is essentially the same 36mm version with a gilt Explorer 3-6-9 dial produced only in 1958. If you see other 5504 Explorers with a case dated other than 1958 the watch most likely started it’s life as an Air-King, not an Explorer. This distinction is important when searching for one, however as Rolex doesn’t confirm or deny anything regarding their vintage pieces one can’t be 100% certain. Diligence, research and scrutiny are always of the utmost importance.

Now, coming back to why it’s hard for me to let this one go. What I truly love about this watch other than its looks is that despite being over 70 years old it’s still a great everyday watch to wear. It’s actually been pressure tested to about 30 meters. Not that I’m going swimming with it, but it’s still nice to know I don’t have to be careful around water going about my daily activities. Also, while it isn’t a cheap watch by any means, it isn’t anywhere near as expensive as say a gilt dial chapter ring 1016 or even a 6610. The icing on the cake though is the fattish font yellow radium markers which I prefer over the thin markers on the 1016 Explorer.

Regarding its condition, the lume is perfect. The dial has obvious patina, mostly from radium dust, but unlike many 5504 Explorers I’ve seen it still has its deep black glossy luster. Like most 5504 Explorers I’ve seen the hands are newer replacements, but the original lume on the hands match the color and texture of the lume on the dial perfectly while the minute hand is nearly touching the chapter ring (FYI, any gilt dial Rolex chapter ring model would originally have a minute hand reaching all the way to the chapter ring). What I am actually most picky about regarding vintage Rolex is the case, which should be thick and sharp with the lug holes far away from the edge and the bracelet end links sitting nearly flush with the case. This watch is a premium example of what the case should look like, with thick and sharp lugs and bezel.

Accompanying this fantastic piece is a Rolex 6636 stretch rivet bracelet with proper 75 end links dating to 1965. The bracelet itself is really hard to find, especially in this condition and finding one like it will easily run you $3k+. Although the bracelet isn’t original to the watch, it belongs on it and I have enough respect for both items and their next owner to not separate them. The watch with bracelet will accommodate a wrist up to 7.75”.

As all good things must come to an end for some, they often lead to new beginnings for others. Here’s your chance to take a well-loved watch off my hands and enjoy it for yourself. I promise once you have it on your wrist you’ll feel the same way about the watch as I do.

WATCH SPECS

Maker: Rolex
Model: Explorer Super Precision
Reference: 5504
Year: 1958
Material: Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 36mm diameter; 12.75mm thickness with crystal
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: Radium dial w/ newer Rolex tritium hands
Caliber: Rolex cal.1530 automatic
Bracelet/Strap: Rolex 6636 full stretch rivet bracelet date ‘65
Lug Width: 20mm
Box/Papers: N/A